Goodbye Lake Kawaguchi, Hello Nagoya

We woke today to a hard frost and the lake frozen. I have never seen pine trees look so lovely as they are here, below they are ‘training’ a tree. They also wrap parts or whole trees to protect them in the winter.

We then went to the Doll Museum of Yuki Atae, these were incredible dolls, he captured the figure so well, we were unable to take photos inside the museum so the picture below is from one of his catalogues. Absolutely amazing and intricate work.

We were allowed to take a photo of this one in the gift shop. The figures stood between 30-50 cms high and there were probably over 100 of them, all different ages, some fantasy some everyday.

We then took the bus to a nearby city and caught the bullet train. But before we boarded we had to purchase a bento box or similar for lunch, this was a laugh as we generally didn’t have much idea what was in them. I ended up getting a fish sushi, which was quite good. In the meal there was real wasabi and a little wasabi grater, it tasted fantastic and wasn’t green or like the toothpaste wasabi we get at home.

The train was comfortable with heaps of leg room, it wasn’t the fastest one, apparently we go on that one next week when we go back to Tokyo.

We arrived at Nagoya and proceed straight to the historical area of Arimatsu where shibori dates back to the 17th century. Street was very authentic and quaint and being winter was quite quiet. We had a tie-dying workshop with some Japanese experts (all women), the oldest of whom was 86, they were lovely and eager to share their knowledge albeit with hand signals and lots of laughing. We did all our stitching and tying and they will dye the fabric and have it sent to our hotel in Tokyo waiting for us to arrive there.

We then went to a very famous Kimono designer’s shop (I can’t remember his name) it was in a beautiful old house, complete with zen garden and beautifully dressed men and women in traditional kimono. The prices were steep, but the fabrics beautiful and hand done, so I guess were one-offs. I need to find out more about it, but from what I can gather, when you are 21 you go and get a kimono, some people get more than one but most people only get one, because of the cost. They can graduate in it, get married in it etc.

The picture below is created by tie-dying, lots and lots of tiny knots to create this one.

See the price on these ones, that’s about $50,000 (NZD) but they were mostly a lot less than this – even some sale ones for around 200,000 yen, which is around $2,500 NZD.

Tonight we went to a Japanese Brazilian restaurant, it was a meat-eaters paradise with lots and lots of dishes of meat brought out and a small salad bar you could help yourself to.

At the hotel we were given a little voucher that we take with us to breakfast, lots of hilarity after we read the bit about what to wear to breakfast. Especially after we wore our ‘dressing gowns’ to dinner last night!

Fuji-san

Today we left Tokyo and drove to Kawaguchi, the second largest of the five Fuji lakes. On the way we stopped at a ‘truck stop’ which was massive, there were some interesting foods on offer. Lots and lots of sweet stuff and not much savoury.

Had no idea what was in these packages!

What the hell is this!!

At the lake we stopped at a cableway and went for a ride up to get views of Mount Fuji. I felt very fortunate to see the mountain, it was a beautiful clear day, apparently it is fairly hit and miss as to whether or not you get to see it.

You have to leave your pets at the bottom!

It was a smallish cable car and they crammed us all in! But so worth it at the top, stunning views and such a beautiful day, I would love to see this area in autumn it would be incredible.

We had lunch at a local restaurant, this is the local delicacy, Hoto, delicious broth with mushrooms, crab, one piece of carrot and noodles.

We then travelled around to the other side of the lake to the Itchiku Kubota Art Museum.

This guy used an ancient tie-dying technique (very time consuming and intricate) to create huge pieces of art work in the kimono shape. THe building was fascinating and the art works were mind blowing, we were not allowed to take photos but if you click the link above you can see some of them, although as usual, the photos don’t do it justice. It’s interesting, as he died in 2003 and his family sold the gallery but his family held the copyright for his images, so the gallery cannot sell anything which has images of his work on it – very frustrating. Apparently, they are fighting for the rights but it has been more than two years in court. Absolutely stunning building and reminded me a bit of Gaudi’s garden in Barcelona.

I pinched the above image from google

We then headed off to our hotel, which had a Japanese bath in it. Our guide went into great detail about the protocol etc, there is a certain way you wear the Yukata (cotton kimono) which is basically a dressing gown. Helen you would have benefited from this pep talk lol. You then proceed to the bath, wash yourself down and go into the spa, there were two pools one inside and one out – you don’t wear togs but go naked, got to see more of my tour peers that I would’ve thought I would!! Great fun though. Then you wear your Yukata to dinner, looked hilarious with practically the whole dining room in them.

The terrible view from my room.

Hello Tokyo

Had a lovely flight to Tokyo, watched 5 movies and thoroughly enjoyed Victoria and Abdul despite the mixed reviews.
Upon arrival, we had to walk through a heat sensor to see if we had a fever or not, then walked over a disinfectant pad, then on to have both our index fingers scanned and facial photos taken!! Apart from that customs was very orderly and quick. Met a few of the women on the tour and headed to our hotel. Narita Airport is in the country about an hour or more from Tokyo city, it was so lovely viewing the city at night with all the lights and reflections on the water.

Today we went to the East Gardens of the Imperial Palace. Our Guide, Toshi, said that there was an ambassador arriving today and they choose to be escorted to the Palace by horse and carriage, the men were practising while we were there, the horses were beautifully groomed and they kept going around in a circuit.

There were several ‘Poo sweepers’!

They have moles here!

I love how the stone walls around the gardens were irregular but still quite controlled, they trees and plants were groomed within an inch of their lives as well. The gardens would be absolutely spectacular in spring, there were heaps of azalea.

Next we went to a Boro museum, Boro is Japanese textiles that have been worn and mended over and over, they were works of art.

We then went on to the Senso-Ji Temple.

Apparently these girls aren’t Japanese they are from other Asian cultures and they come to the market area around the Temple and hire these outfits – our guide said quite disdainfully that the kimono they hire are polyester!

This area was inside the temple. You shake that silver box while making a wish, then you tip it upside down and through a very small hole a chop-stick like stick comes out with a symbol on it, you then match the symbol to one of the drawers and in the drawer is the answer to your wish or your fortune! The English translation is hilarious and we compared some of them, they say something very similar but in different ways

We had a lovely lunch and then headed of to the Nippori area of town which is the sewing district.

That is a live owl!! I have no idea what she is doing with it!

Saw some amazing sights in the sewing district, this girl was going to a shop called Tomato, it has several floors of fabrics etc (a wee bit like our spotlight, but way better).

The leather shops here was incredible, it went to make a purchase and the zip on my purse got stuck – bloody Trevor must be controlling the purse strings from home!! Rest assured I got it open and have sorted it so it doesn’t happen again.

We headed back to our hotel around 4pm it had started raining, everyone here has umbrellas and they are everywhere to buy. I had a wander around the lovely shops near the hotel like Tiffany, Salvatore Feragamo, Harry Winston etc. Went to an amazing stationery shop, they have such a selection and beautiful taste here.

We then went to an authentic Japanese restaurant down the road from our hotel, it was interesting getting into our seats, your legs and feet went into a ‘well’ under the table, hilarious but quite comfortable, the steamers were sitting on induction plates that heated while you sat there.