Last day in Tokyo and some more Quilt Show

Today we had free time until 2pm, so after wrestling with my bags and jumping on them to close them, I decided to head back to the Quilt Festival, after all that’s why I came to Tokyo. So off I went on my own for a couple of hours.

If you need a taxi in Tokyo, just go to a hotel and the porter outside will hail one for you, and its as easy as that. The doors on the taxis open and close on their own (I assume the driver pushes a button.

You are not allowed to smoke outside, but they permit smoking in the restaurants!

I thought that being a Monday the quilt show might be a bit quieter, um nooo I was wrong.

The (mainly) women queue outside entertained by a big screen playing an old black and white movie!

Once they are inside they go straight to the seating area and put their coats, bags etc onto seats to book them for later when they sit down. Several also take pieces of string and rope off an area big enough for their group to sit.

This was my lunch today, you purchase a bento box and a drink, I was asked whether I wanted hot or cold, I chose hot – this was how it came – in a bottle like this, and it stayed hot for ages.

Some of the stands have hilarious names but most of them are only in Japanese.

Even some sake tasting!

I finished my lunch and headed for the exit, I threw the bag with the empty bento box into the bin and walked towards the exit. I looked down at the bag I was carrying and realised that I had thrown my shopping bag into the rubbish instead of the bento box, I ran back to the bin, which was one of those big bins that had a sloping top then a sort of roof on it, with a gap of about 30cms, I couldn’t see into the bin and I wasn’t game to put my hand in there. There was a young guy working at one of the food stalls nearby so I tried to communicate with him that I had put the wrong bag into the bin, he thought I was asking him if I could put my rubbish in the bin!!! Dear oh dear, anyway, I got my phone out and went to my translation app and typed in what I was saying, it translated it beautifully into Japanese and he said ‘ahh’ and opened the bin for me, phew there it was on top, yay, got my shopping back and popped my bento rubbish in.

I got into the taxi to head back to the hotel to catch the transfer to the airport. I checked my emails while in the taxi and yahoo Air New Zealand had upgraded me to premium economy, fantastic – looking forward to the bubbles and a good sleep.

Goodbye Japan, its been amazing, such lovely, fun people, a clean and unique country.

The hip area of Tokyo and the textile area

This morning we went to the Yazawaya Department store  at Kamata, this is a Mecca for quilters, sewers, jewellery makers, stationery fiends and more. If you are into any type of craft, this is the place to visit in Tokyo.

Huge selection of Echino fabrics at half the cost we pay, this was only a third of what they had!

This is half of the Liberty fabrics they had

How they display their buttons

We then headed off to Ometesando, the hip area for young people to hang out.

We had another group meal last night and farewelled Toshi, our guide, her sense of humour was brilliant and her Japanese English was good but funny.

Sorry forgot to take photos of the food, was too busy eating it!

Tokyo food day

This morning we visited the Tsukihi fish market, the largest wholesale fish market in Japan.

Lots of sights, smells and people. Was very entertaining.

Bonito fish dried above and flaked below, these are delicious sprinkled onto dishes

Dried scallops – the Japanese dry everything and anything and they package almost anything and everything!

Dried, pressed squid anyone. Complete with comical drawing. The Japanese on the whole seem to have a great sense of humour and take any opportunity to have a giggle or laugh. (Probably at our expense lol)

We then went to a sushi restaurant and were taught to make sushi, the chef was very entertaining.

Couldn’t get the above photos in order, never mind.

Then we were off again to the Tokyo Quilt show, more jostling and making exciting purchases.

These two women were doing a kind of super fine trapunto work their stitches were minute and it was all done by hand, mind blowing stuff.

When we left the show it was dark and we walked through another illumination garden, so lovely (you may notice that the ponds were beginning to ice over, so cold).

As Deb and I had missed the tour bus back to the hotel we negotiated the train system and made it back to the hotel without incident. This was the crowd at the train station near our hotel – busy Saturday night.

Once again we didn’t go out with the others and found a little Tonkatsu restaurant and enjoyed another great meal.

I found this amazing coat at the Quilt show, made with beautiful silk dyed with persimmon and mud! It was very light and soft to wear, but at $2,300 NZD, I had to say no, I got some lovely silks and a ton of photos of the coat to maybe make myself one.

I will post photos of the Quilt show once I get home and can do it on my desktop rather than the iPad, much quicker and easier

Tokyo and Tokyo at night.

This post has lots of images, but thought it was worth it for the beautiful sights we saw today (not including the Quilt show). This morning was another brisk one and we were on the road by 9am heading to the Tokyo Dome for the International Quilt Show.

View from my hotel room, this is a building is called the cocoon tower and is 50 stories high, it houses three educational institutions.

Concierge in the hotel lobby.

There are signs like this all around the Quilt show, all signage is in Japanese and we obviously don’t understand them!

All the taxis in Japan are Toyota Crown, luxury model, old as the hills but clean and shiny.

This is near the Tokyo Dome and is a betting place, when we came out of the Quilt show it was packed and very noisy with lots of men placing bets and all watching screens.

There was a mosaic all around the edge of the dome. Apparently this is a baseball dome and it seats 50,000 people.

First glimpse of the show, looks small, but believe me we spent 7 and a half hours there today and saw about maybe half of it, it is massive and thronging with people. I went through 2 batteries in my camera. I will post some photos of one exhibit at the end of this post, but am too tired to upload a lot of photos and will do the quilt show justice in separate posts over the coming days.

Tonight Deb and I decided to not meet up with the other tour members and go to dinner, as we wanted to experience an authentic Tokyo experience and the restaurants that cater for 30 or so women aren’t the ones you should go to. So we headed off on our own.

This kind of dish is called yakatori, it was truly delicious, washed down, of course, with a nice French wine!

The following pictures were from one exhibit at the show, Hansel and Gretel. Everything was fabric and stitched.

The following pictures give you an idea of the amount of people there. For the first hour it was quite nice and you could get good photos of whole quilts but after than it was a bun fight, but quite fun. The above photo was the people in front of the Supreme winner. The photo below shows the people streaming in during the day, this was still going on when we left at 4:30. After fighting my way though to get a photo of the supreme quilt, I came out laughing and chuffed with myself as I was taller than most and could hold my camera above all the heads. There was an American girl doing exactly the same as me and we laughed together about this was the only time at a quilt show we were able to do that.

Goodbye snowy Kyoto

We awoke to snow this morning, a clear sunny day but very cold.

We went to the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine where on the 25th of every month they have a market day. This is a mixture of new and used items for sale along with food.

We then went to the last of our workshops held at the Shibori Museum. We were met off the bus by the enthusiastic owner who made sure we arrived safely without slipping over, we had a quick class of clamping and dyeing a scarf. This was fun and easy.

We then headed off to the Nishiki Market, Kyoto’s food market, was awesome, I have no idea what some of the foods were and forgot to take many photos, it was amazing.

Then onto the bullet train and off to Tokyo.

Kyoto day 2

Today was freezing! It didn’t get above 2 degrees! Glad I brought my possum merino glove, socks, hat, jersey I needed all of it today.

This morning we headed off to the Heianjingu Shrine.

This was a kumquat tree with its winter cover.

Then we visited the Museum of Traditional Crafts. They put on a show for us with the director giving a speech and explaining about the regional crafts which are now revered and they are elevating the skills with government grants and special quality marks. It was amazing how many of the revered skills were textile based. They had some artisans come in and give us demonstrations, and some were able to make things.

We then had some free time to wander around and do some shopping. The two photos below are of a needle shop. It was so small you could only fit 4 people in it at a time, so beautiful he sold only needs and pins and small travelling needlework kits.

Then we were off to a Yuzen painting workshop, this was painting fabric with stencils, not my favourite workshop of all the ones we have done so far, but that was only because the stencils I chose were not great and the colours were very bright.

Next door there was a fabric painting workshop where men were painting five metre lengths for obi.

Loved their brushes

Most of the textile industries we have been to are in peoples homes – we don’t get to see where they live but the premises are either beside or under their houses. They all have little zen gardens, some of them as small as 2 square metres. You would not have any idea of what’s around, they are tucked down little alleys and no signage outside. The rooms we have been into don’t have windows out onto the street, the windows that face the street are covered with paper screens and the only windows with clear glass face into their zen garden, none of their windows face neighbours etc, they are covered with the screens so let in light but no view.

Kyoto Day 1

Kyoto is a lovely city with wide streets and older architecture. Today we divided into two groups. We started out going to the Kinkakuji Temple (Golden Pavilion).

We then went to the UNESCO world heritage zen garden

Then we moved on to visit the Orinasu-kan – this was an obi weaving studio. The looms were all operated by hand and the fine silk was hand woven using a complicated pattern. Unfortunately we were unable to take photos in the weaving studio. This company employed about 5 artisans and one 5 metre length takes about 1 month to weave, as opposed to the machine ones which are probably done in less than a day.

The garments were beautiful, the designs were so intricate they looked like embroidery but were woven.

This was the street the weaving studio was on. You can’t tell what’s going on in the houses/studios/factories as they just look like houses.

A lovely bit of modern Japanese architecture, would have loved to have a look inside this house.

These vending machines are everywhere, even contain alcohol!

This machinery was parked on a vacant section in a residential area.

After a brief stop for lunch (ops I’d already eaten some before I remembered to take the photo)

We went to the Yamamoto Rocketsu dyeing workshop. There was one man and three women, they were so lovely and excited to share their craft with us.

First we chose a design, then slipped it between the two sides of the T-shirt and painted the wax on. One layer of wax for a pale design and two for a bright design.

These were hanging on the wall, such an inspiring display.

Then it was time to put the t-shirts into the indigo dye, had gum boots on as well as all this gear.

The man then put the t-shirts into the boiling water to remove the wax.

The shirts were still wet so they bagged them up for us to hang up in our hotel room to dry.

Then we were off to the Gion district (the geisha quarter). These streets were very narrow and walking only, was disappointed not to see any geisha but was a lovely area.

They have lots of different manhole covers in the footpaths, these were denoting the geisha district.

The wooden panels below indicate how many geisha live in the house, this house has several. One wooden panel for each geisha.

The building below was the ‘big party house’ in the book Memoirs of a Geisha.

Our guide said it was not a popular movie in Japan as the Japanese felt it misrepresented them. The original writer of the story maintains that the English translation was dramatised and changed quite significantly.

Our guide took us to an Okonomiyaki restaurant tonight, was lots of theatre and very delicious.

We cut our food and ate it with the gib-stopping trowel!!!

 

Takamatsu and Kobe

This morning we went to the Ritsurin Garden in Takamatsu. It is very large and one of the most historical gardens in Japan. The buildings there date back to the early 17th century. There are hundreds of pine trees here and no flowers, although there are irises here in the spring.

It started raining while we were there so the reflections were a bit disturbed.

I have no idea what these were but obviously they are a choking hazard!

On our way to Kobe we crossed the inland sea and stopped on Awaji Island which is famous for its onions. There was an amazing shop there with everything onion! And all their foods had little tasting boxes so you could sample, it was fantastic. They had these little fish that looked like whitebait but they pressed them in a small square machine into what looked like fish paper, had a strong fish taste, I have no idea what you would use them for.

Dried fish tails anyone?? All the food is packaged and have a plastic version or in you can’t see into the packet they have a packet with a plastic lid so you can see what is inside each box.

We then we on to the city of Kobe and had lunch at a Kobe beef restaurant – delicious.

We had a wander around Kobe for an hour and came across this pet shop, They had kittens and puppies, the kittens were around 440,000 yen which is around $5,400NZD!!! You must really really want to have a cat!!!

We then headed on to Kyoto and arrived at dinner time. I was tired and just felt like a chicken salad so went to the 7 Eleven and grabbed one and had an early night.

One of the ladies on the tour makes Temari balls, I bought this one today and think I will use it as a Christmas decoration.

Indigo dyeing and some culture

This is the light in our bus!!! I think they do karaoke in this bus! When our guide got on this morning and starting using the mike it had weird sound effects.

Today we drove an hour out of Takamatsu to an indigo dying place. It was a room in the basement under the man’s house. From the outside it looked like a normal house. The smell was very unusual, a bit like fermented/slightly off plants. This was the natural way to indigo dye not the synthetic way we do it. First we were given squares of plain white cotton which we brushed wax designs onto. We then dipped it into the indigo vats, 5 dips for one minute and holding it out of the dye for 30 seconds. To get the really deep blue we would have needed to dip it 20 or 30 times, but time did not allow us that. Afterwards they washed the wax out with hot water, spin the fabric and two ladies ironed it dry for us, very spoilt, was a fascinating process and the man was very experienced, there were three other Japanese people there who were learning the craft from him.

His blue hands.

These were the hands of a young women who was learning the craft.

Ironing my piece. We then travelled back to the city to have lunch. Most restaurants are quite small but they all have plastic versions of their menu (even the beer has a plastic sample!)

I had a beautiful sashimi lunch, very tasty.

We then went to an Awa Odori performance, they performed various dances to their own music and then got some of the audience up to join them, I slunk down into the back corner!

A few of us decided that tonight we would like a bit of a change from Japanese food and decided to go to a burger place. I have to say, quite ashamed, it was so delicious. The Japanese food is so high in carbohydrates and low in protein its just a reversal of how I normally eat, its very delicious but a bit of an adjustment.

Deb, a lady on the tour, and I went to the hotel bar tonight after dinner amazing views and great cocktails and a few laughs. Good times

 

Takamatsu

Today was walk then train, train, bus, bus, hotel. We travelled to Takamatsu today. This was my lunch to have on the train.

When we got to Takamatsu we boarded a bus and drove and hour and a half to the Awagami Washi paper factory. This is a family business making washi paper by hand. We all made some paper, the staff were very helpful and lovely people, got some great paper to make some handmade journals with – yum. Not many photos today, I wasn’t near a window to take them and had wet hands while at the factory,

Most of today was spent travelling and tonight for dinner we had udon noodles, which this city is famous for making.

A lovely little old man stopped me in the street outside the washi paper factory and asked where I was from, I told him New Zealand and he said he had been there many many years ago.

The hotel we are staying at is the JR Hotel Clement Takamatsu, it is very nice, I have to say the accommodation has been superb so far.